November 6, 2009

Ring Sizing 101-Part 2

Posted in birthstones, bride, diamonds, engagement, gemstones, gold, jeweler, jewelry, jewelry design, jewelry repair, pearls, rings, rose diamonds, wedding tagged , , , , , , , , , , at 10:30 am by rosediamonds

(a continuation of ring sizing 101)
Platinum vs. White Gold.
Platinum jewelry is like owning a Caddillac.  I once had a broken bolt and spent $800 to replace the whole wheel.  Platinum is more rare than white gold, making it and it’s “parts” more expensive.  Without fail platinum jewelry is much more expensive to service and repair.  Platinum scatches more and tends to “bend” instead of break.  Platinum is more dense and feel “heavier” when compared to a gold ring of the same size.
White gold is an alloy of white metals, like silver and nickel combined with pure yellow gold.  This mixture is why white gold looks “yellowish white.”  To overcome this, most manufacturers rhomium plate white gold.  Rhodium is a member of the platinum family and gives white gold the “white white” look of platinum.  With exposure to chemicals (bleach), wear and tear, or perspiration, the rhodium plating can come off.  It can be touched up by a jeweler.
Sizing Options
A common ring sizing problem is “big knuckles, skinny fingers.”  I see this one every day, and it effects people with arthritis more than most.  There are options for adding springy bars, gold beads, and even hinged bands to the bottom of rings to make them more comfortable.  These options vary greatly in price, so ask for your options at the repair counter.  There is more than one way to skin a cat.
A common problem with the big knuckle crowd is: once the ring is over the knuckle, it flops around.  In the past, we hae installed a wider shank to counter balance the weight from the top of the ring.  A ring guard is usually the least expensive option to solve this problem.
Sizing vs. Stretching
Rings are adjusted to fit by stretching if they A. have enough metal in the shank to handle the adjustment without getting too thin, and B. are being adjusted up to a half size.  The metal is adjsuted without adding extra metal to it.
Rings are sized when they are cut and either reduced or expanded.  Jewelers reform the shank by heating it and melting liquid gold into the seam to re-seal it.  If the ring is being expanded, the jeweler will add a piece of gold to the ring and melt the gold into both sides of the piece.  This is the more expensive of the two options and more time consuming.
Need your ring sized?
We recommend getting it sized by a professional in person.  The disposable ring guages are somewhat accurate, but not foolproof.  Another option is to bring in a ring that fits to get comparatively sized.
Your ring size may vary up to 3 ring sizes thru the course of the day.  Factors involved: weather finger shrink in the cold and swell in the heat, diet (salty food can swell fingers), time of month (self explanatory, ladies), and time of day (I wake up with skinny fingers and go to bed with fat ones).  If your ring doesn’t fit perfectly, you may want to wear it for a couple days to see how the fit fluctuates.  Going from an ice cold office to the blazing heat outside can cause big changes.
Hope this article helps you navigate ring sizing:)

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