January 28, 2012
Jewelry Inspiration Source Discovered!
Pinterest. If you haven’t heard of it, you will soon. Generally speaking, pinterest is a virtual bulletin board where people can share the pretty pictures (with customized captions) they find online–like a scrapbook, but less messy– I originally found out about it via a wedding industry newsletter. It peaked my curiosity enough that I checked it out. People can post themed boards with pics of wedding ideas, cute pets, dreamy interior design, etc.
I think as the pinterest world grows, it will bring about the sharing of more fantastic design ideas. I stumbled across the following board–see what you think. So far, I have used it to organized a grouping of “dream projects” for later review. I like that the original website is linked to the “pin” so it is easy to look for more info on the pics you like. Custom design is made easier when people have the tiniest bit of inspiration…I’m excited!
http://pinterest.com/knh126/romance/
January 14, 2012
Secrets of Silver: Plated with rhodium & other stuff
Silver jewelry has come a long way. With gold prices still hovering in the upper thousands per ounce, silver jewelry is enjoying a renewed popularity with mainstream consumers who previously only bought gold. Silver jewelry with diamonds, fabulous silver and cz statement rings, silver designer inspired jewelry…
As a jeweler, I get several people per week that have a new silver ring they would like sized. Occasionally, it can be adjusted the traditional way, with torch sizing. More often, we have to settle for adding a ring guard to reduce the apparent size of the ring. Most sterling silver jewelry is coated with a thin layer of rhodium, nickel, or some other white finish. When jewelry is coated/plated, it will have one of three different reactions to high heat (soldering):
- Turns black. When polished shows a pinkish midlayer, then a dull gray.
- Coating crackles like one of those crackle vases.
- Bubbles/peels–ruins the smooth surface of the jewelry
RHODIUM PLATING-Rhodium is a member of the platinum family and mimics platinum’s “white white”. It also protects the piece from natural tarnishing, but it has its drawbacks, such as uneven wear, scratching and repair difficulties. The exposure of chemicals (cleaning supplies, cosmetics) and perspiration speed wear. Rhodium can be reapplied by a jeweler on most silver pieces.
WEAR - The layer of rhodium plated on silver jewelry is extremely thin, and over time it will wear off. It usually wears off evenly, leaving dull spots (on the bottom of rings). Most pieces can be rhodium plated again. but the labor cost may floor you. Platinum’s cousin is also expensive, and there is a good deal of polishing and cleaning labor time involved. If you have a sentimental piece you adore, a simple repolishing might work just as well–ask your jeweler. Another drawback is the fact that rhodium plated pieces can be scratched easily and the scratches cannot always be polished off without ruining the finish in general. Many jewelers refuse to work on coated silver jewelry period.
We have noticed a trend of jewelry come in for repair that is not rhodium plated but nickel coated. These platings are usually much thicker (and wear better) but make traditional repair almost impossible due to the adverse reaction the coating hast to heat). Many jewelry stores (brick and mortar and online) allow clients to simply exchange rings ordered that do not fit upon receipt. We approach each silver jewelry piece individually to see if repair or alteration is possible.
December 27, 2011
Dividing the jewelry of an estate between heirs: tips from a jeweler
We are about to enter the season of New Year’s resolutions. The fair and equitable division of jewelry from an estate is an issue that has come up time and time again. I have compiled a list of tips and suggestions that have worked best for our clients over the years.
Here’s the situation: a loved one passes away to leave a collection of jewelry that does not divide equally. For example, it could be
- a vintage (not gold) brooch
- a small sapphire ring
- a huge amethyst ring
- a diamond solitaire pendant
- a multiple stone diamond engagement ring
How do the heirs divide this up equally when the values are very unequal?
How Things are Valued
We explain that there are different values:
Sentimental value-does not make a piece worth more $ but if the brooch was worn every year at Christmas dinner by a favorite aunt, it becomes more valuable to the heirs because of the memory it envokes.
Insurance value-this is retail replacement value or in the case of a vintage or custom pieces, it is a value for replacement with a comparable item. If lost or stolen, an insurance company will pay out this amount to have the piece replaced. This amount should be recalculated every few years as the prices of gold and gemstones fluctuate with the world market. For example, a pair of gold earrings that you bought for $30 five years ago would now cost $90+.
Scrap value-this is the amount a jewelry store or pawn shop will pay you for the items to be broken down into parts. The metal smelted and refined while the stones will be used for repairs or sold to a dealer. (We use old gemstones in our mini gem museum or gemology classes)
How to Divide Things
( I am just making up the names to these rules btw). How well these rules go will depend on your family’s personalities. You know what I’m talking about.
- Read the will–wills are a pain in the neck to create, so if the loved one went so far to write out a legal document saying the peridot bracelet goes to cousin Ed’s neighbor’s mailman’s cousin–respect it. This is what they wanted.
- The rule of return to owner–If you gave mom the diamond earrings for her birthday, they can be reasonably returned to you.
- The rule of favorite ONE item–Let each member pick out their one favorite piece from the collection. ex. if your sister wore mom’s sapphire ring at her wedding as something blue, she might have a stronger sentimental tie to it than the rest of the family.
- The rule of equal parts–Take all jewelry of an estate (you’ll get a better rate if it all goes in one trip) to an appraiser. Split the items as close to equal as possible or have people “buy out” for favored pieces. You can also interpret this as dividing up a three stone ring between three kids, diamond earrings between two kids, or everyone getting 2 bracelets etc.
Inevitably, some jewelry will be considered “leftover.” Costume pieces can be donated to charity, while the remaining precious metal jewelry can be sold (scrap value) and the proceeds equally divided.
Planning In Advance
If the idea of your family squabbling over your jewelry/possessions in general turns your stomach, here’s a few ways to minimalize the chaos.
- Invite loved ones over (one at a time) and show the collection. Say you’ll consider special requests–who knew your son always liked your coin pendant? This gives you the opportunity to tell the recipient the stories and history behind the jewelry they’ve chosen. These stories are priceless and many times lost.
- Go another step and distribute the pieces before your death so you can see others enjoying them. TELL people of you mind if the pieces are redesigned. I know a lot of women that have inherited jewelry in a drawer somewhere at home because they don’t want to offend Mama be redoing her yellow gold abstract retro ring…
- Update your will if you are expecting a confrontation, or would like to avoid one. A written history of the history and stories of the pieces would also be appreciated. One day your bracelet from your college days when you dated the president could be on antiques roadshow–you never know! Update often if there are…changes in family status in your family. This is a very common thing nowadays, and you might not want grandama’s ring bequeathed to “that hussy that ran off with the mailman.”
Try to keep your sense of humor and an envelope of calm around you when dealing with this situation no matter the side you are on. A good jewelry appraiser should ask you a lot of questions about how you want things evaluated and it might be a good idea to make a family meeting together with the appraiser so everyone can have their say. Emotions run high in these situations, but inherited jewelry remains one of the most sentimnentally charged items you can have.
December 6, 2011
In Response to Rock Center’s Expose on Gold
Last night, NBC featured the dirty side of gold mining on Rock Center with Brian Williams. Here’s the link if you want to look it up before reading on…
What I found more interesting than the story was the comment section below. Here is an excerpt from one:
So few people know about how or where jewelry is made. Why don’t you just ask the store where your jewelry is produced? Most high end manufacturers/designers actually make and produce their jewelry here in the USA.
BLERP! This is incorrect. Many “high end designers” including Tiffany & Co. & David Yurman produce their jewelry in countries like China. This came up in an industry magazine because Tiffany an Yurman were fighting against legislation that would require country of origin marks on the jewelry itself instead of a paper tag (that is discarded by the shops before display).
Most QVC/ KMart / Walmart jewelry is pruduced in China or India. If you buy low price point chances are that you are contributing to the child labor, destruction of environment , mentioned in the article above.
Yes & No. The lowest end jewelry is many times completely mechanized in production, so there are fewer people actually touching it.
Still , I think something along the lines of the Kimberley Process for diamonds in international law for gold might be helpful for consumers to purchase products that are free from child exploitation.
There are laws in place to help prevent the trade of conflict diamonds, rubies, etc. The jewelry industry is held responsible for “fair trade” sourcing. Most of your retailers purchase goods from a supplier who may purchase them from a distributor. Many retailers trust that their sources are following the respective laws assigned with goods imports, and have little to do with the process.
I also think that the US should impose greater tarriffs on jewlry and other products that are manufactured overseas. That could be helpful in bringing more manufacturing back here.
Whoa there! With the price of gold at an all time high, there is a very likely chance that this increase would be passed along to consumers. While we disagree with child labor, this solution is not likely to stop the problem.
Reasonable Alternatives to the Problem
You, Joe Consumer, have an options:
- Refuse to wear jewelry (I hope you don’t pick this one). That’ll show em’
- Ask your local jeweler about fair trade sourcing (don’t expect a super long explanation here. Many in the industry “trust” our vendors to be following the laws so we don’t have to get our hands dirty, so to speak)
- RECYCLE your old gold. This is our favorite option here at the shop. I don’t want this to sound like a plug, but I will explain briefly how we handle gold recycling at our shop. Most jewelers that offer this do a similar method.
Gold Recycling at Rose Diamonds
- Get Inspired with an idea (from catalogs, magazines, etc) for a new piece of jewelry
- Bring in Trade in Gold (broken or in tact does not matter)
- Refine idea to include stone(s) (yours or ours)
- Sketch/rendering of design (yours or ours)
- Propose budget (because we are custom jewelers, we can scale the design to fit your budget)
- Send scrap gold off to refinery (we handle this for you)
- Wax model is a 3D version that you can try on
- Cast jewelry with refined gold
- Polish & Set stones in finished piece
- Take home & enjoy your custom piece
November 26, 2011
Shopping Key Words to Watch For
As the holiday shopping season kicks off, I am writing out an “off the cuff” list of words to watch for in jewelry ads this holiday season. We all (myself included) get excited with the thrill of the hunt, and sometimes forget to use our critical reading skills when scanning the ads for bargains.
Gold Plated, Gold Filled, 14K over Sterling, Silver plated, Goldtone/Silver tone, Silver filled–These all refer to a thin coating over another less expensive metal. Any plating can wear off. To reduce wear and tear on it, you can opt to coat it with an clear acrylic and reduce its exposure to moisture and chemicals (including sweat and bleach) .
Simulated Stones=look alike stones. For example a synthetic spinel or even rhinestones are often substituted for their more expensive counterparts (like rubies). Wear and tear and durability may vary from the impersonated stone.
Synthetic stones=the exact same as the natural gemstone except it was grown in a lab instead of in the ground. These will usually have an ideal color and nicer clarity than natural stones of the same price. Same durability and wear/cleaning as its natural counterpart.
Pay attention to diamond clarity & color. Sometimes, it is difficult to compare apples to apples with diamond jewelry because small differences in color and clarity can make big differences in prices for similar carat weight items. This time of year, many jewelers roll out some “promo” diamond pieces that are big on looks and low on price. These can be very pretty, but they are priced for what they are–commercial quality stones. Many will be cloudy, brown, or specky, crackly, etc. Ask to see several of the same item. They vary from piece to piece within the same store…
Pay attention to the weight of the item–This is usually not listed in advertisements, but when you get to the store, if the items feels flimsy, be careful. The price of precious metals is very high right now, so many manufacturers are making ultra light weight items to keep prices affordable for jewelers and their clients. A flimsy piece can eventually lead to more repair expenses down the road. You can always switch to thicker chains for pendants at home or ask to reset stones in heavier mountings. Most jewelers can make adjustments to size, length, etc. for you.
Watch costume jewelry for lead–especially for children’s jewelry. Some risks just aren’t worth it. A lot of the imported costume jewelry (pretty much all that’s out there) contains traces of lead. There are new laws in effect to curb the import of these items, but use caution. Items could have been warehoused in the US since before the laws went into effect. The law is great but it is understandably hard to enforce.
I’m sure I’ll think of a dozen other thinks to watch out for. Hope you had a great holiday and we will see you tomorrow at our new second location:
Rose Diamonds 2
1374 E. Republic Rd.
Springfield MO 65804
October 13, 2011
Taking Care of Your Alternative Metal Bands
We recognize that many people (usually men) have purchased alternative metal wedding bands. We are drawn to their fabulous modern designs, their relative weights (either heavy or ultralight), and their teeny cost:)
What some retailers forget to tell you (not that we blame them or their salespeople) is how to take care of your jewelry once you’ve bought it. I occasionally forget to mention the anti-bleach rule to my clients as well:)
Tungsten & Ceramic Rings
- Clean with hot water and soap (an old toothbrush helps get in the grooves and between/behind stones)
- Steam cleaning is okay
- NO ultrasonic cleaning
- NO ionic cleaning
- Avoid dropping on hard surfaces (duh) or hitting with a hammer-like force. They can both shatter
- Emergency removal involves a specialized ring cracker
- On tungsten, do NOT use any chemicals other than alcohol (this means no red jewelry cleaner solution)
- Gold or silver inlay can be repolished, but it will not affect the tungsten or cermaic part
- Clean with hot soap and water (an old toothbrush helps get in the grooves and between/behind stones)
- Steam cleaning is okay
- Ultrasonic cleaner is ok (if there are no gemstones–gems set in stainless steel can fall out if you use an ultrasonic)
- Stainless steel & titanium CAN be repolished (stainless is easier to do; titanium requires extra wheels and polishing compounds)
- Clean with hot soap and water (an old toothbrush helps get in the grooves and between/behind stones)
- Steam cleaning is okay
- Repolishing requires extra wheels and specialized polishing compounds
- Avoid Bleach (found in pools, hot tubs, cleaning supplies, hair chemicals, laundry detergent, household cleaners)
- Check stone tightness by listening for “rattles” or visual movement
- Regularly remove lotion/soap/conditioner buildup with warm soapy water and an old toothbrush–”clean stones look bigger!”
- Professional cleaning & prong inspection is free everyday at Rose Diamonds–Let us do the work for you!
October 1, 2011
6 Tips For Selling/Buying Jewelry (Safely) on Craigslist
Most people nowadays could use a few bucks. Many are liquidating their unused jewelry on Craigslist for profit, and you can find legitimate “deals” and fun pieces listed online.
Rose Diamonds has begun offering mediation services (for free) to buyers and sellers to minimize the risk to both (and yes, meet potential repair and appraisal clients). There have been many stories on the news from coast to coast of people meeting to exchange services or products listed on craigslist and meeting with a sticky end. I have compiled a few basic tips if you’re thinking of posting an item for sell or purchasing.
For Sellers:
- Be detailed in your description and honest in your listing. It will save time in the long run if you’re not calling or emailing back and forth a million times. Remember to include 10K, 14K, carat weight (if you know it) or stone type and measurements in mm. Ring size, length of chains and bracelets (in inches), whether a watch is working, etc.
- If you still have any original receipts or appraisals, offer to present these items for inspection (in person only since these often have private information such as credit card numbers or home addresses) to potential buyers.
- Include a (good) picture. It will make more people pay attention to your listing. Jewelry can be very tricky to photograph because it’s shiny, so try a variety of background colors and lighting. Jewelry that is being worn (you can crop out faces) can give potential buyers an idea of the jewelry scale/size.
- Decide before you list whether you are willing to bargain with people and know your absolute lowest number. Many people get caught up in the excitement of a potential sale and loose sight of their goal. That being said, understand that some buyers will not be satisfied unless they get you to reduce your price. It can be as little as a $5 discount, but it makes them feel accomplished at negotiating.
- Skip your life story/sob story details. There are bad people out there who could be using the information you give (about your divorce and being so lonely and alone on weekends–a great time to rob or accost you). Be wary of giving out personal phone numbers, addresses, emails, etc. A hotmail or gmail account can be set up in a few minutes for free.
- Meet people in public and use the buddy system. If your buyer refuses, so can you. No amount of potential money is worth your safety.
- Have realistic expectations on the condition of used jewelry. It will probably not be your rings size. Most will have scratches in the metal and be dirty behind/between the stones. This is easily fixed by repolishing and a good clean; rings can (usually) be resized. Stone abrasion (which is normal with everyday wear and tear) is NOT easily fixed and can end up costing more than the ring for repolishing. Look for dullness, surface scratching, and chips
- Meet sellers in public and use the buddy system. By offering to buy an item, you have just told a relative stranger that you have money in hand. Don’t be ridiculous and offer to have them deliver anything to your home.
- Ask questions and seek a professional opinion on large purchases. Most craigslist sellers are not professional jewelers or gemologists. They can legitimately make mistakes in their claims and promises that can end up ruining a deal.
- Take a magnifying glass or jewelers loupe with you. You can then better see inclusions in gems, check the item for damage and verify gold karat marks. These are tiny and can be found on the inside of the ring, the lever on hoop earrings, and the clasp on bracelets, and chains, etc.
- Feel for rough spots on chains and bracelets gently with your fingers. This can expose weaknesses/possible future breaking sites.
- Understand stone replaceablity. Turquoise and strange shaped stones are MUCH harder/impossible to replace if damaged or missing. Faceted stones like diamonds, birthstones, etc are usually replaced starting at $15 for little tiny ones.
September 22, 2011
Problem Solved: Diamond Stud Earrings Droop in Ears
I have had several clients complain that their stud earrings droop when they wear them causing the diamonds to face downward. This can be caused by thin earlobes or heavy stones. I usually recommend two solutions.
Solution 1: Bigger backs. There are giant earring backs available by special order in silver, platinum, and 14K yellow and white gold. They are much more expensive than regular backs ($50+ each for gold), but they help support the weight of your earrings. For those of you with acrylic nails, they are also easier to put on. A less expensive alternative is a clear acrylic disc to put between your ear and the earring back to mimic the support of the giant backs.
Solution 2: Reset earrings in three prong “martini” setting. The three prong setting allows the earring to sit partially back in the ear (see picture). This reduces the strain on the ear and provides a lower profile when viewed from the side. These are available in standard posts (with friction backs) or threaded posts (screwbacks). I, personally, like the modern look the the three prongs from the front, too.
Do you have other suggestions about earring backs? Leave a comment!
September 20, 2011
Large drop earrings light up Emmys red carpet | National Jeweler
Large drop earrings light up Emmys red carpet | National Jeweler.
This article in an industry jewelry magazine highlights some of the more fabulous earrings that were worn at the Emmys this year.
I have always been a fan of drop earrings. They slim the face and draw attention to the delicate jawline. Try combining two old pairs of studs into a new set of glam dangles or create your own inspired by this year’s hottest looks! I think black sapphires or even onyx could be used to save cost on recreating these styles…
September 7, 2011
7 Ways to Stretch Your Engagement Ring Budget
In Case you’ve been living under a rock, the US is in the midst of a recession. Depending on what media outlet you tune into, you probably have different ideas about the economic downturn’s severity. I reason that anytime is a good time to explore ways to “make economies.” That sounds much better than cheapening it to “saving money”, right?
According to a recent article published by National Jeweler ( http://www.nationaljeweler.com/nj/fashion/jewelry-fashion-reports/article_detail?id=27143 ), grooms are spending less on engagement rings than last year, with the average coming in under $5200–which is nothing to scoff at. One of the most common pleas from the newly engaged is that they want their ring to be “different.” Easier than it sounds. Here’s a few ideas of how to accomplish both while keeping your budget on track.
Idea 1: Get nostalgic. Use Uncle Fred’s old wedding band. Re-Set Grandma Thompson’s old engagement ring center stone in a “now setting.” Go old school with a vintage setting from an estate/pawnshop/craigslist/ebay. (Be careful as this one might entail more repair work than you realized)
Idea 2: Color Substitute. If it’s good enough for Kate Middleton/Princess Di/Jessica Simpson etc…Colored stones are generally much less expensive than a diamond of the same size. Notable exceptions to this rule are FINE quality sapphires, rubies, alexandrite, & tanzanites. A pop of color definitely makes a ring unique. Black diamonds (and recently black spinel/sapphires) are much less expensive than their colorless counterparts.
Idea3: Mix metals. Hugely popular in Europe, metal mixing allows you to “repurpose” the yellow gold you’ve been avoiding. While white gold and platinum remain king here in the states for bridal, try pairing tiny bands of yellow or rose gold with a white gold solitaire or a fabulous yellow gold ring guard/wrap, etc.
Idea 4: Plate it on top. A good jeweler can electroplate the top half of your ring white, yellow, black, or rose. Plating can wear off with exposure to chemicals (even household ones) and wear and tear. The good news? It’s easy and fairly inexpensive to touch up. Avoid coating the bottom part of your ring. After exposure to your natural perspiration, it will wear off more quickly there.
Idea 5: Resurface. Add a hammered, satin, florentine, brushed, etc. finish to a plain old band to make it unique.
Idea 6: Put a ring on it. Make small center stones look bigger by adding an illusion plate or a halo/booster ring of diamonds. They now come in every diamond shape and can update an older setting or pump up a small center.
Idea 7: Don’t forget your trade in. Now is a good time to browse through your sock drawer for the anklet your eighth grade boyfriend gave you, the remaining diamond stud earring you got for your 16th, and old birthstone rings. The high price of gold has turned this discarded fodder into a hot commodity that can be used to offset the perfect (sigh) ring. It’s also important to purge past relationship reminders BEFORE the wedding.
Note: Couples often forget that wedding rings tend to grow with the relationship. I often recommend that a couple choose a versatile (ie. changeable) style that is easily upgraded at future anniversaries. You may have noticed I did not mention the wildly popular trend of alternative metals. This is a personal choice (I’m not unaware of the trend), but I look disfavorably on rings that cannot be sized.
Also mentioned in this article was an increase in the “mangagement ring.” More on that next time:)
