11.27.09
Gold: Our obsession through the ages
Gold: Our obsession through the ages. We desire it and have gone to war for it. Ancient man linked gold to the sun and was convinced it was a source of great power. Since the times of the ancient Greeks, gold has been used to relay the perception of wealth.
During the Middle Ages, the science of alchemy focused on changing lead to gold. European armies pillaged Inca and Mayan civilizations to satisfy their thirst for gold. Governments have requested citizens to donate their gold. Fort Knox and its gold bricks provides backing to the paper money our government prints. Japan even has a building covered in gold. Today, gold has reached new heights as the buying power of the dollar struggles.
Gold is sometimes misunderstood within the jewelry industry. As prices continue to soar, there will be more and more devious plots to mislead the public. First, pure gold is too soft for most jewelry wear. Most of what is in the US today is 14K or 10K. Asia and the Middle East are known for their 22K, while in South America 18K is more common. Europe ranges from 9K up.
The proportion of gold to base metals yields the karat value. Gold mixed with copper has a pinkish cast, while gold mixed with nickel has a white look. Classic yellow gold is a combination of gold and silver.
I have always explained to clients that gold is like bread. Whether French bread, or Rye bread, the recipe contains differing amounts of flour, salt, etc. 14K gold is always 14 parts of gold to 10 parts of another metal. The other metal can be a combination of metals that vary from manufacturer to manufacturer.
This is why 14K from US factories (buttery yellow) will look different from English 14K (pinkish gold) to Turkish 14K (deep yellow).
Another hard-learned lesson is the mass introduction of gold plating in the jewelry industry. Gold filled, Gold Plated, Rolled Gold,14KP, 1/20 14K are all referring to a thin coating of gold over another metal. As jewelers, we have seen more and more precious stones (usually low grade diamond chips and commercial sapphires) being set in gold plated pieces. Many department stores have turned to gold plated sterling silver. It retains the value of being a precious metal, but should not be referred to as gold.
Some care issues with gold plated items are the fact they cannot be traditionally repaired or sized without the gold plating coming off. When heated with a jeweler’s torch, the gold plating turns black typically. This plating can also fade over time with prolonged exposure to perspiration, bleach or other household chemicals.
Being from South Florida, I saw a LOT of plated gold brought back from the Caribbean. This was usually stamped (illegally) 14K, but it faded to silver over time. Some criminals even put gold end caps and clasps on plated chains. I usually advise that tourists stick to established stores when traveling. If the deal sounds too good to be true, it most likely is (or it’s stolen goods).
While yellow gold flatters virtually every skin tone, pink gold can even out yellow skin tones while white gold can cool ruddy complexions. The beauty of gold jewelry beyond its value and durability is the fact it is so versatile. It can be sporty, tailored, or dressy and never truly goes out of style. Gold can also be “recycled” into new jewelry.
11.23.09
Getting the most out of your earrings
My alternative title to this post was kinda corny. ”How to increase your face value with earrings” made me cringe even as I typed it.
There are few accessories that can have as much effect on your face as a pair of earrings.
They can have more impact than makeup, bringing out your best features and correcting less than perfect ones.
For example, large earrings make a nose look smaller, silver hoops cool down a ruddy complexion, and gold ones warm up winter pale skin.
As the holidays approach, I have always extolled the intelligence of giving gifts that “always fit.” With the economy in it’s current state, earrings do not require additional upgrades (like a chain) and don’t have to be sized (like rings). Unlike shoes, bags, and hats, earrings never go out of fashion.
The latest trend on red carpets everywhere are dangle earrings. These bring attention to a delicate jawline and elongate the face (making it look less round).
Another overlooked earring shape is the oval hoop. It is traditional, but the shape flatters every face shape.
If your face is more rectangular, try a wider earring.
Multicolored earrings brighten the complexion.
Look for earrings that add “movement” to your face. A gorgeous earring can also draw the eye up (away from your waistline) if there is sparkly movement.
Try to make sure you buy “light” earrings. While I love big earrings, avoid the super heavy ones for prolonged wear. Elongated pierced holes are no fun.
If you have a pair of earrings you adore, think about adding an earring jacket. It allows you to add a bit of sparkle to your diamond/pearl studs. Custom earring jackets can be made for other earrings.
Consider adding a screw post and back to your favorite earrings for added security.
Ask your jeweler to trim posts that “poke.” No one wants to wear uncomfortable jewelry.
11.19.09
Jewelry Store Customer Service
With the holidays fast approaching, I am always looking to improve the client experience at the shop. I myself get treated horribly when I go shopping. My refusal to dress up on my day off, my sons in tow, and my youthful appearance all scream “waste of time” to most shopgirls.
Share with me your worst Jewelry store customer service experiences, so I can avoid the situations in the shop this holiday season. Was it a repair shop mess up? Aloof Salespeople? Paper Thin, Cheap Quality? High prices compared to other places around town? To be fair, let’s not mention names.
What Is The Kimberley Process Anyway?
“Industry calling for swift action on Zimbabwe”
This was a recent headline within the jewelry industry.
While people are vaguely familiar with the Leonardo DiCaprio movie “Blood Diamond,” many don’t realize the diamond industry has long been embroiled in controversy. In a nutshell, the Kimberley Process is a certification process where governments try to prevent the black market sale of rough diamonds from rebel/terrorist funded origins.
The trade of these illicit rough diamonds fund rebel wars against legitimate governments, like Sierra Leone, The Republic of the Congo, and Angola.
While there are terrible consequences to the “blood diamond” trade, rest easy that all the diamonds from our vendors comply with the Kimberley Process Certifications.
You may not realize that the diamond trade is not the only gemstone that has raised the human rights issues. Tanzanite supply is very unstable due to the government’s control of the supply. Emerald mines in Colombia usually are guarded by private “armies” with automatic weapons. Myanmar has come under fire regarding their rubies and human rights violations.
Does this mean people should boycott rubies? Not really. The gemstone trade is carefully regulated by many governments. The gems you see in displays across America are carefully regulated, and the fines for not complying are not worth the risk to jewelers or gem dealers.
Let me know if you have more questions about conflict stones and their alternatives:)
11.17.09
The Lonely Life of A Jeweler
Just a quick note to get something off my chest. Since I have moved from South Florida to the Midwest, I’ve noticed some changes (other than the frigid weather).
In South Florida, my husband and I owned two jewelry stores and were friends with many other jewelers in the neighborhood or within the same mall. Not only did we “loan” out pieces the other jewelers were in need of, but we met and discussed (whined) about the jewelry industry in general, trading ideas and tips.
Since I have moved, I have not lost contact with my South Florida contacts, but we have noticed the local jewelers are less than friendly. It was easy to identify the well dressed pairs that came in demanding prices on a one carat princess cut I SI 1 solitaire as the competing jewelers around town. There was a parade of them for the first two months we were here.
This industry is rife with “knockoffs,” and there is always some risk sharing too many secrets amongst your peers. At the same time, I feel like we can all learn from each other. A kid straight out of school can sometime show an “old hand” a shortcut in diamond setting. We’ve learned not to underestimate the value of having colleagues in the industry.
11.14.09
The Number One Mistake Guys Make Buying An Engagement Ring
Pictured is LeAnn Rimes’ wedding set found in an old People Magazine.
The article states that her husband had designed the ring for her. Can you guess what my problem might be with this?
Even with their seemingly unlimited budget, he made the number one tactical error on buying an engagement ring. The second band does not fit with the engagement ring. It will never “feel right” and will cause the rings to shift uncomfortably on the hand. By the way, the engagement ring IS lovely; it’s then band that raises issues.
I see this everyday as the most important factor (long term comfort) that couples ignore while shopping for the perfect ring. Later in life, it is common for a man to add a diamond “anniversary band” to the engagement ring or wedding band. If you get an unusual shaped ring, you’re going to be faced with customized bands (pricier) or ill-fitting ones like this. Take a moment to plan for the future beyond getting her to “say yes” and consider the versatility or lack thereof your engagement ring offers.
11.12.09
Tanzanite Fast Facts
- Tanzanite was discovered in 1967.
- The exotic violet gem from Tanzania was made popular by Tiffany and Co.
- It was originally meant to be a sapphire alternative.
- While a 6 to 7 on the Mohs Hardness Scale, tanzanite has fair to poor toughness. (translation: it can cleave/split easily and is sensitive to thermal shock)
- Almost all tanzanite is heated to improve its color
- Most Tanzanite begins as unglamourous brownish zoisite
- Fluctuations in supply, controlled by the Tanzanian government, make the price of tanzanite fluctuate
- Ideal Tanzanite Color is a Pure Blue that rivals Sapphire or a vivid Violet-Blue
- Most commercial tanzanite is purple
- A synthetic tanzanite has not been created, but an imitaions exist–Synthetic Forsterite & Blue Coranite (Glass & purple YAG)
- Fine Tanzanite can rival diamond prices.
- There has been an effort to make Tanzanite an alternative to Blue Zircon for December’s Birthstone
11.06.09
Ring Sizing 101-Part 2
11.04.09
Ring Sizing 101-Part 1
One of the most common repairs people have is getting their ring adjusted to fit. Most rings are manufactured in a “stock size.” The stock size for ladies is usually a size 6 and a 10 for men. Most people do not wear a “stock size.”
I equate it to buying jeans. Short, regular, tall size options can really make a difference. The fit of the jeans also comes into play.
Factors to Consider
Ring shank width. (A shank is the bottom half of the ring) A narrow ring shank will fit differently (smaller ring size) on your finger than a wide shank (substantially larger size). For example, I wear a size 3.5 on my ring finger for a thin shank, and a 6 on a wide band. This means that while your wife wears a size five for her engagement ring, it doesn’t mean she will wear the same size if you add a wide band to it. Take a moment to look at your fingers, palm side up, and you will see that the finger gets thicker towards the knuckle.
Design of the ring. A ring with a flat top, invisible set stones, or tiny side stones may not be able to stretch/shrink to fit you. A jeweler will be able tell you the limitations of the ring. An example: A size 9 channel set anniversary band cannot be sized down to a size 5. The angles of the metal that hold the diamonds is would change too much, causing the stones to fall out.
Two sizes is usually the max range of adjustment for rings with stones. Rings with squared off shanks are more difficult to size and will cost a bit more labor wise because the jeweler has to make two adjustments. (like taking a dress up in the sides instead of the back seam) A quality jeweler should be able to copy the milgrain (tiny beaded edge) or ridges/designs after the sizing is done.
Engraving. Remember to ask to have the ring re-engraved before you leave it with the jeweler. The re-engraving is usually additional.
Ring Material. Some rings cannot be sized. Tungsten, stainless, and titanium rings come to mind. When people purchase these rings, they simply have to buy new ones if they gain/lose weight. Some tension set rings also should not be sized.
Plated rings (made more popular by Macys, Kmart, and soaring gold prices) can be sized, but most jewelers will refuse them because the plating comes off with the heat of the jeweler’s torch. If you fall in love with a costume ring, don’t despair… Buy it as close to your size as possible. A simple ring guard can be worn to make it more “wearable.” Ring guards work for costume rings also.
“Temperamental” stones–expect to be charge more for the sizing. Shell cameos, pearls, opals, malachite, tourquise, tanzanite, and emeralds HAVE to be removed before any sizing with heat can happen. They have to be re-set after that, so this explains why it takes longer and costs a little more.
Look for Part 2 the Nov. 6th 
11.02.09
At the Repair Bench FAQ:
